1. Cable: best
A USB-C to HDMI adapter (Android phones with video out, iPhone 15 and later) or Apple's Lightning Digital AV adapter (older iPhones). No lag, and sound goes over HDMI to the projector.
Not every Android phone has video out over USB-C; look up "DisplayPort Alt Mode" for your model. Get an adapter with a charging port for long shows.
2. Wireless mirroring
Android: Quick Settings → Cast or Screen cast, to a Chromecast or a projector with Google Cast. iPhone: Control Center → Screen Mirroring, to an Apple TV or an AirPlay projector.
No cable, but 0.1–0.3 s of lag and some blur on fast motion. Fine for mapping; content may run a beat behind the sound on the phone.
3. Second screen (Chrome)
Tools → Project → Present to a screen sends only the output to a Chromecast, a cast-capable projector or a connected display. This device keeps its controls, so nothing you do here is projected.
Videos and images are copied to the screen over Wi-Fi when it needs them; big videos take a while.
4. Laptop
Use the projector as a second display, then Tools → Project → Open output window. Chrome puts it on the projector by itself if you allow window placement; otherwise drag it there and click it once.
When mirroring
- Everything on the phone screen is projected. Map in landscape, then tap Show: only the content is left. Double-tap to come back.
- Turn on Do Not Disturb so notifications don't pop up on the projection.
- The phone is wider than the projector, so you'll get thin black bars at the sides. That's normal.
On the projector
Turn off keystone and auto-keystone, and set the picture to "native" or "just scan" (no overscan or zoom). This app does the correction; the projector's own softens the image and can shift it after you've mapped.